Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak Climbing

The name of this mountain was given in 1953 by Eric Shipton’s party who were on their way to explore the Barun Gorge. Seen from above Dingboche the mountain does indeed resemble an island in a sea of ice. In 1983 it was renamed Imja Tse, although for most people the descriptive name of Island Peak seems to have been retained.

Seen from the moraines between Pheriche and Dingboche the mountain doesn’t look too impressive, dwarfed as it is by one of the largest mountain faces in the world; the South Face of Lhotse. However, on close inspection it reveals itself to be an interesting and attractive summit with a highly glaciated West Face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain itself is really an extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated from it by a small col. Above this gap, rising to the south, is a classically beautiful ridge leading to the summit of lmja Tse. The continuation of this ridge, descending south-west, provides part of the normal route of ascent and leads in turn to the South Summit, seen capping the rocky west facet of the mountain when viewed from near Chhukhung.

Island Peak was first climbed in 1953 by a British team as a training exercise in preparation for Mount Everest. Tenzing Norgay was one of the members of this first ascent team.

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Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to the Hotel.
Day 02 Sight seeing in Kathmandu Valley
Day 03 Fly to lukla (2840m). Trek to Manjo(2840m). Overnight in Hotel
Day 04 Trek to Namche Bazar (3440m)
Day 05 Acclimitization in Namche Bazar Visit some Sherpa Villages.
Day 06 Trek to Tengbuche(3860m). Overnight in Hotel
Day 07 Trek to Pheruche(4240m). Overnight in Hotel
Day 08 Trek to Chukkum Valley (4730m) and precede trek upto Chukum Ri. Back to Hotel
Day 09 Trek to Island Peak Base camp (4970m). Overnight in Tent
Day 10 Acclimitization and Climbing Practice.Overnight in Tent
Day 11 Trek to High Camp Overnight in Tent
Day 12 Climb to Summit and back to base camp.
Day 13 Cleaning up Base Camp.
Day 14 Trek back to Deboche (3820m).
Day 15 Trek back to Khumzung(3780m).
Day 16 Trek Back to Phagding(2610m).
Day 17 Trek Back to Lukla
Day 18 Fly back to Kathmandu